Friday, March 21, 2025

Day 76 - March 20, 2025 - Thursday - Tsavo East National Park, Kenya

Today we have our longest excursion yet, 11 hours.  We are traveling from Mombasa to Tsavo East National Park.  This simi-arid area previously was known as the Taru Desert.  The park comprises 5,308 square miles.  Tsavo East National Park is considered one of the world's biodiversity strongholds, providing undeveloped homes to vast numbers of animals.

We had our alarm set for 3:30 AM.  After a shower and dressing, we went to the Cafe for breakfast.  It was to officially open at 4:30 but was open earlier.  After breakfast, I went out for my morning photos, but it was too early for the pre-dawn.  This was the best I could do, the port control tower.

Kay and I were off the ship just after 5:00 AM.  Carl and Janet were a little behind us. Since our excursion wasn't expected to leave until 5:30 AM, we were surprised when we were boarded at 5:10 AM.  We were also surprised because we were expecting (dreading) to be on a coach for the 3 hour ride.  The coach we had yesterday was quite cramped.  Instead, we were given a nice, later model Land Cruiser which seats 8 including the driver.  It was just six of us and the driver.  Since Janet and Carl were not her yet, we were with 4 other people.  A couple from (surprise) Marietta, GA, and a mother and daughter from Cullman, AL.  

My pre-dawn photo, taken thru the Land Cruiser's window.

Our driver/guide Nawab.  I took this at our first rest stop about 90 minutes out.  Janet and Carl caught up with us at our next stop, shortly before reaching the park.  Their vehicle got caught in more traffic and even had a transportation officer escort.  The second stop was necessary because once you enter the park, you are not allowed to exit the vehicles for any reason, and there are no facilities on the Land Cruisers...

We arrive at Tsavo around 8:15 AM

There were many, many trees with various types of weaver bird nests.

The African bush elephant



This guy, about 2-3 ft long crossed the road in front of us.  He certainly blends in well with the grasses. I believe he is a desert monitor.


Our vehicle with the top open, it made for great viewing and photography.



A nice water hole, but unfortunately no animals...

Elephants were by far the most plentiful animal seen.








Mother and child



Impala

Impala

Impala

Young Waterbuck

Plains zebra

with young







Blue Wildebeest, the only one we saw.




For lunch we visited the Ashnil Aruba Lodge which lies in the heart of Tsavo East National Park.



We enjoyed a wonderful buffet lunch with several different stations.  I only made it past one...

I enjoyed ox-tail, lamb chop, vegetables & potatoes along with saffron rice and a local bean dish which I cannot name.  The flat bread with the beans was delicious.

It was finished off with the local Lager, "Tusker".  It was as surprisingly good beer.

Around the Lodge was an 8 ft. tall electric fence.  I would imagine it would stop most animals, but not the big ones.


Rainbow agama lizard

Road markings in the park.



Coke's hartebeest


Coke's hartebeest

Giraffe





Guess-- our one and only spotting of a hippo.

coming over the rise


Two young males, doing what young males do...


Now for the birds of the day!
Secretary Bird - they stalk and kill their prey by stamping them to death with their powerful feet and legs.  And no, this bird doesn't have three legs, there is another bird behind this one.

Black Headed Heron


Northern red-billed hornbill

Superb Starling

Superb Starling

Superb Starling in flight, startled when our guide started the motor.


African Ostrich

Black shouldered Kite

Golden Pipi

Black and White Stork

African Openbill Stork


Our ride, with the top closed.


The locals are very friendly and like to engage in conversation.

After leaving the Art Gallery, where we had a rest stop, we began the trip back to Mombasa and the ship.  This turned into another adventure of its own.  There was road construction, no signs, no one directing traffic and thousands, yes thousands of trucks.

I was surprised at how many herders we saw with cattle and goats along the highway.  Apparently they were being herded to a watering hole.

I will share a few of the many sights along the highway.




I kept seeing these small hotels and guest houses.  It turns out they are for the truckers.  The port of Mombasa is the primary port for Kenya and the largest in East Africa, handling a vast amount of cargo for a wide hinterland, including Kenya, Uganda, Rwanda, Burundi, Democratic Republic of Congo, Tanzania, South Sudan, Somalia, and Ethiopia. The port serves a region with a population of over 250 million people. Thus the need for the overnight accommodations, such as they are.




As we were passing these areas and seeing the tremendous amount of truck traffic, I wasn't aware of the size and significance of the Mombasa port.

Another thing we saw dozens of during our 3-hour drive was schools.  There seemed to be a sign for a school every 5 to 10 miles, but you never saw the school.   They were always located down a dirt road off the main highway.  Perhaps for safety or noise?







More herders.













Notice the yellow buckets/jars in the above photos.  They are for water, and they were everywhere.



I observed these being carried on women's heads, on motorbikes, being rolled by children with their feet, women carrying them on their back and in their hands.  I saw men with wheel carts loaded with the yellow jugs.  Water is a necessity and getting it is just a part of their life.


When we were about 25 mile out from the city, things really got bad.  Our driver drove in the left lane (normal), the right lane, on the median and completely off the road.  It was an exciting trip and the last 25 miles took about an hour and a half.  Carl and Janet were behind us somewhere.











Need some new (or not so new) shoes?


As we got nearer the port, we saw more and more truck.  We even saw a few of these containers being pulled by a tractor.  This was on the highway, not in the port.

We were scheduled to be back at 4:30 PM and we made it back at 5:30 PM.  Carl and Janet did not return until 7:15. It was a long day.

On a sad note, we saw a pedestrian who was struck by a vehicle on the highway.  We passed moments after it happened.  It appeared to be fatal.  With the amount of traffic and with so many people and animals on and around the highway it is bound to happen.  So sad.

We now have two sea days before reaching Madagascar, due to the cancellation of Zanzibar because of the cholera outbreak.









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